Behavioural changes in our dogs often take us by surprise. Everything seems fine, until one day your previously affectionate companion snaps when you reach out to stroke them. Shock, embarrassment, anger, even guilt can follow. Many owners then reach out to a dog trainer or behaviourist, hoping to have the unwanted behaviour “fixed”.

But what is causing it?

Sudden or escalating behaviour changes always raise an important question: could pain be involved? And while there could be many possible reasons for a behaviour change, pain is one of the most significant – and one of the easiest to miss.

If pain is an underlying factor, behaviour modification alone is unlikely to be effective.

Appropriate pain management doesn’t automatically erase learnt behaviours, but without it, meaningful behaviour change is often impossible. A dog cannot learn new coping strategies if they are physically uncomfortable, distressed, or constantly managing pain. This is why a vet check should always be the first step when behaviour changes appear or intensify.

How easy is it to spot signs of pain in our dogs?

Many owners expect pain to look like:

• Limping
• Reduced mobility
• Crying or yelping
• Flinching when touched

Even the example we gave at the beginning was quite “obvious”. But in reality dogs are remarkably good at masking pain and discomfort. A dog in pain may still run, jump, chase, play enthusiastically, and have zoomies. In many cases the signs are often subtle and appear long before the dog’s behaviour changes.

When more obvious physical signs are absent, pain may show up through changes in behaviour, including:

• Restlessness or difficulty settling
• Early waking or disrupted sleep
• Excessive licking and coat changes
• Reduced frustration tolerance
• Heightened reactivity or irritability
• Reduced ability to self-regulate
• Increased anxiety

Pain can also amplify existing emotional or motivational states. A dog who was already a little anxious, reactive, or sensitive may appear to “suddenly worsen” – when in reality, their capacity to cope has been compromised.

According to CAM (Canine Arthritis Management) “Dogs express pain in many subtle ways, which we often identify and associate with the disease late in its course. Please don’t delay seeking veterinary advice, waiting until your dog limps or yelps to confirm your suspicions of pain, as by then they are likely to be in significant pain. ” (4)

So what else do we often miss?

Mouthing, destruction and displacement behaviours

Some dogs show increased mouthing, chewing or destructive behaviours when in pain. These behaviours are not attempts to be “naughty” or controlling. They often function as displacement or tension-reducing behaviours – or ways of reducing internal discomfort (1; 10). The feeling of relief that follows can be reinforcing, even though the original cause (pain) remains unresolved.

Guarding spaces: comfort becomes valuable

Has your dog suddenly started guarding the sofa, bed, or specific resting spots?

Soft, supportive surfaces can become especially valuable to dogs experiencing discomfort. These areas may offer relief, warmth, or the ability to rest in a position that minimises pain.

Guarding in these contexts could be suggest underlying pain and protecting comfort, not dominance or status.

Chronic pain and emotional wellbeing

Pain, when unnoticed or left undiagnosed and untreated for long time, can become chronic. Chronic musculoskeletal pain, even when mild, can affect day to day life significantly. Over time, persistent discomfort can:

• reduce stress tolerance
• lower arousal thresholds
• increase anxiety and reactivity (8)
• lead to chronic stress (15).

Chronic pain doesn’t just affect behaviour in specific situations; it influences the dog’s overall emotional state, behavioural expression and well-being (6; 8).

Pain, handling and defensive behaviour

Pain and chronic medical conditions can make physical handling uncomfortable or painful, which could be a factor in any defensive reactions (12). This may affect stroking, lifting, grooming, claw clipping, putting harness on, etc. If snapping, growling or avoidance have previously succeeded in stopping or preventing the interaction, and therefore removing the pain (2), and providing relief (14), those behaviours are likely to be repeated, they become learned behaviours.

With chronic pain or mobility issues, grooming can be especially challenging (3; 5).

• Handling one paw even before the actual claw clipping may be uncomfortable due to joint stiffness or altered weight distribution
• Brushing over tense or sore areas may cause pain, even with gentle pressure

Over time, grooming tools — and the people holding them — can start predicting discomfort and pain (13), and what looks like “overreaction” is often a learned response based on pain history.

And from the dog’s perspective, the behaviour works.

Seasonal flare-ups and environmental stressors

Chronic pain conditions, particularly those affecting joints, often worsen in colder weather (11). Autumn and winter can bring increased stiffness, greater discomfort and seasonal pain flare-ups, making dogs more irritable, potentially increasing stress levels (8) and lowering his threshold for reactivity and aggression.

At the same time, environmental stressors such as storms, wind, fireworks, and shorter daylight hours could also lead to low mood and pessimistic bias, making any other underlying issues worse (9). Even dogs without noise sensitivities may be startled by sudden sounds like thunders or fireworks, leading to abrupt movements that trigger pain (7). This combination can lower tolerance and increase the likelihood of reactive or defensive behaviour.

The takeaway

Behaviour doesn’t happen in isolation.

When we see behavioural changes, especially sudden or escalating, pain should always be part of the conversation — not an afterthought.

Effective behaviour work starts with:

1. Veterinary assessment and appropriate pain management where needed;
2. Adjusted expectations and management strategies;
3. Behaviour modification that considers both the dog’s physical and emotional capacity.

Pain often explains behaviour. And understanding that explanation is what allows us to support our dogs more fairly, compassionately, and effectively.

REFERENCES:

(1) Arhant, Christine; Winkelmann, Rebecca; Troxler, Josef (2021) Chewing behaviour in dogs – A survey-based exploratory study. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 241, 105372.

(2) Beaver, Bonnie V. (2009) Canine Behaviour, Insights and Answers, Second Edition.
St Louis, Missouri, Saunders Elsevier.

(3) Bekoff, Marc (2022) Grooming Dogs: What’s Good and Bad From Their Point of
View, Psychology Today.

(4) Canine Arthritis Management (2026) Does my dog have arthritis? https://caninearthritis.co.uk/what-is-arthritis/identifying-the-signs/

(5) Edwards, Petra T.; Hazel, Susan J.; Browne, Matthew; Serpell, James A.; McArthur,
Michelle L.; Smith, Bradley P. (2019) Investigating risk factors that predict a dog’s fear
during veterinary consultations.  PLoS ONE 14(7): e0215416.

(6) Malkani, Rachel; Paramasivam, Sharmini; Wolfensohn, Sarah (2024) How does chronic
pain impact the lives of dogs: an investigation of factors that are associated with pain using
the Animal Welfare Assessment Grid. Frontiers in Veterinary Science 11:1374858.

(7) Meneses, Tia; Robinson, Jessica; Rose, Jessica; Vernick, Jennifer; Overall, Karen L.
(2021) Development of and pharmacological treatment options and future research
opportunities for separation anxiety in dogs Journal of the American Veterinary
Medical Association, 259(10), 1130-1139.

(8) Mills D S; Demontigny-Bédard I; Gruen M; Klinck M P; McPeake K J; Barcelos A M;
Hewison L; Van Haevermaet H; Denenberg S; Hauser H; Koch C; Ballantyne K;
Wilson C; Mathkari C V; Pounder J; Garcia E; Darder P; Fatjó J; Levine E; (2020)
Pain and Problem Behaviour in Cats and Dogs Animals 10(2), 318.

(9) Mills, Daniel; Dube, Maya B.; Zulch, Helen (2013) Stress and Pheromonatherapy in
Small Animal Clinical Behaviour. UK, John Wiley & Sons, LTD.

(10) O’Heare, James (2007) Dog Aggression Workbook. Ottawa, Canada, BehaveTech
Publishing.

(11) Overall, Karen L. (2013) Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats,
St. Louis, MO, USA, Elsevier Mosby.

(12) Reisner, Ilana R.; Houpt, Katherine A.; Shofer, Frances S. (2005) National survey of
owner directed aggression in English Springer Spaniels Journal of the American
Veterinary Medical Association, 227(10), 1594-1603.

(13) Rooney, Nicola J.; Clark, Corinna C.A.; Casey, Rachel A. (2016) Minimizing fear and
anxiety in working dogs: A review Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 16, 53-64.

(14) Sapolsky, Robert (2017) Behave: The Biology of Humans at Our Best and Worst
London, UK, Vintage.

(15) Scholz, Martina; von Reinhardt, Clarissa (2007) Stress in Dogs Wenatchee, Washington,
USA, Dogwise Publishing.

Let’s unpack why the “stubborn dog” myth falls apart the moment we look under the surface of the problem behaviour.

The “Stubborn” Label Is Harmful

And here are the reasons why:

• Labelling a dog as stubborn simply shifts blame onto their character without any proof that this is the case. We stop looking at ourselves – have we actually done enough?
• It closes the door on curiosity. Why isn’t this working? How do dogs learn? What about the environment, the dog’s DNA, or the level of training they’ve actually received?
• It creates frustration and punishment-based reactions.
• It frames the dog as defiant rather than confused, overwhelmed, or under-trained.
• It places responsibility on the dog instead of the training process.

Stubbornness Requires Knowledge — Most Dogs Don’t Have It Yet

Stubbornness assumes the dog knows what to do and is choosing not to.

To refuse something, you have to understand the request.
Many dogs simply don’t. Most of the time, the dog never truly learned the behaviour in the first place.

A dog performing a sit in the kitchen does not mean they understand “sit” in the park, around squirrels, when wet grass feels weird, or when another dog is walking past.

Dogs don’t generalise well. They learn in contexts, not abstract concepts.

Most owners unintentionally skip some critical stages of teaching. What I hear often is: “I want my dog to have a good recall in the park, but he just ignores me”. When the truth is, we expect too much, too soon. Training doesn’t start in the local park and there are important learning stages missing:

• Clear learning: showing the dog what the behaviour means in a low-distraction environment
• Repetition: many, many, many successful trials.
• Generalisation: practising in different places, on different surfaces, with mild distractions.
• Maintain knowledge: reinforcing the behaviour long-term, even when it’s reliable.

If any one of these steps is missing, the dog doesn’t “know” the behaviour.
They’re not being stubborn — they’re untrained in that context.

Reinforcement History Predicts Behaviour (Not Attitude)

Dogs repeat behaviours that have been reinforced.
Full stop.

Owners see puppy classes as a tick box exercise – my puppy has completed it, so they have been trained…

But no trainer can teach your dog all they need to know in just a few weeks. They show you the HOW and send you home to practice and improve.

We often expect “obedience” from behaviours that have:

• Been practised only indoors
• Only been practised a few times
• Never been rehearsed around distractions
• Not received reinforcement in weeks or months
• Been overshadowed by much more appealing alternatives (e.g., wildlife, scents, other dogs)

In those scenarios, a dog who “ignores” you is making a perfectly rational choice based on natural instincts, needs and reinforcement history — not being stubborn.

Competing Motivations Aren’t Disobedience

If a dog is chasing a squirrel, investigating a scent patch, or worried about a nearby dog, those motivations often override whatever cue you’ve given.

Dogs aren’t refusing you out of spite.
They’re responding to the strongest stimuli in the environment.

Understanding your dog’s motivation and needs, will help you become more important than a squirrel, or another dog, you name it…

Working Breeds: Why are They Not Designed to Be Compliant

This part matters.

Many guardians choose a dog because of looks, not function — and function always influences behaviour.

Example: Dachshunds (Call me biased…)

Dachshunds are cute, but often described as stubborn, difficult to train, or having “selective hearing”. And people just accept it, and stop trying.

In reality, Dachshunds were bred to work independently:

• Following scents underground
• Making decisions without handler input
• Persisting in problem-solving
• Staying highly focused despite discomfort or stress

Independence was always a breed requirement, not a flaw. Getting a puppy from a working line of dogs is almost always a guarantee of strong instincts.

A Dachshund ignoring a recall around scents isn’t being stubborn.
They’re being… a Dachshund. And we just haven’t shown them how to be the pet we want them to be.

The same applies to:

• A terrier who “won’t stop digging”
• A herder who “won’t settle”
• A spaniel who “won’t come back when they’re on a trail”
• A guarding breed who “won’t relax around the front door”
• A husky who “pulls like a train”
• The list goes on…

If a dog wasn’t bred to prioritise human instruction in certain situations, we should not brand them stubborn when they don’t.

Adolescence: The Perfect Storm for the “Stubborn” Label

Between roughly 6–24 months (depending on breed, size, individual dog), dogs enter adolescence.
Brain development during this period temporarily affects:

• Impulse control
• Emotional regulation
• Response consistency
• Risk–reward assessment (“that squirrel is worth EVERYTHING right now”)
• Reinforcement sensitivity
• Stress recovery

This is the stage where many owners say:

• “He knows this, he’s just refusing.”
• “She’s suddenly stopped listening.”
• “He used to come back, now he runs off.”

Adolescence doesn’t create stubbornness.
It exposes gaps in training, reinforcement, or unmet needs that weren’t as obvious during puppyhood.

A Better Question: “What Does My Dog Need Right Now?”

Instead of assuming refusal, try asking yourself “Why isn’t this working?”.

The response I often get during training sessions is – “This makes perfect sense now that you’ve mentioned it”.

And most of the time it’s all common sense. Questions, which as owners we don’t ask ourselves because we don’t want to hear that we maybe haven’t done enough, that we might be letting our beloved companions down, not the other way around…

Ask yourself:

• Am I expecting him/her to actually respond or just “hoping” for the best? Hoping equals insufficient training.
• Have we practised enough?
• Have I reinforced this enough?
• Am I trying to rush this and move too fast?
• Is the environment too difficult for my dog right now?
• Have I taught this behaviour in this context?
• Am I giving clear instructions, or am I confusing her?
• Is my dog stressed, tired, or over-aroused?
• Is their breed influencing their response?
• Is adolescence in play?

Looking at our dogs’ behaviour with an open mind can be liberating. This shift moves us from frustration to problem-solving — and from blame to partnership.

Conclusion

Your dog isn’t giving you a hard time.
Your dog is having a hard time — understanding, focusing, generalising, or meeting their natural needs.

When we rethink behaviour through reinforcement history, learning theory, and breed function, the idea of the “stubborn dog” simply doesn’t hold up.

What does hold up is this:

Dogs do what works.
Dogs do what we’ve taught clearly.
Dogs do what we’ve reinforced.
And dogs follow their natural instincts and do what their genetics prepare them to do.

Swap “My dog is stubborn.” for “What does my dog need?”
That mindset shift changes everything.

For decades, dog owners were told that many problem behaviours came down to “dominance”: dogs trying to become “alpha,” challenge authority, or rise up a hierarchy within the household. This idea became so embedded in popular culture that it continues to influence training methods today, long after it was disproven.

Dominance theory simply does not reflect what we know about dogs (O’Heare, J. 2008).
Modern behavioural science, ethology, and learning theory have repeatedly shown that this interpretation is outdated, inaccurate, and often harmful.

This post summarises key findings from established researchers — because understanding where dominance theory came from, and why it was disproven, is essential to moving dog training forward.

1. Dominance is not a personality trait

Dominance, in scientific terms, refers to how two individual animals resolve resource conflicts (Drews, C. 1993) with each other. It is not a mindset, character trait, or intention. Dogs are not “dominant by nature,” and they are not trying to control humans.

A dog jumping on the sofa is choosing a comfortable spot, not challenging authority. A dog pulling on the lead is responding to environmental stimuli or insufficient training, not trying to “lead the pack”.

What this means:
Most behaviours labelled as “dominant” are actually normal, learned, or emotional responses. They are shaped by reinforcement history, emotional state, genetics, pain, or unmet needs.

Not power struggles.

2. The wolf-based origins of the dominance theory were flawed

The early research (1970s): captive wolves, not wild wolves

The idea of “alpha wolves” ruling by aggression came from studies on unrelated adult wolves kept in captivity (Mech, L. D. 1999). These wolves were forced into unnatural, highly stressful, artificial social groups, and displayed abnormally high conflict (O’Heare, J. 2008).

This model was never representative of natural wolf behaviour, and certainly not of domestic dog behaviour.

The correction (1999): wolf families, not dominance hierarchies

When researchers began studying wild wolves in natural habitats, the dominance theory collapsed. Wolf packs turned out to be family groups, with parents guiding young — not competing adults fighting for rank (Mech, L. D. 1999).

• “Alpha” wolves are simply the parents, the breeding pair
• Aggression within the pack is rare
• Dominance through force is not how wolf families operate
• Most interactions are cooperative
• Leadership is based on guidance, not force

L. David Mech, one of the world’s leading wolf biologists, publicly revised his earlier work and stated that the alpha model should no longer be used, even for wolves — and let alone dogs.

3. Modern canine research: dogs do not form dominance hierarchies with humans

Dogs have evolved alongside humans for thousands of years. They are not wolves, they are a different domesticated species with a unique social status, not pack leaders, and not aspiring to climb a social ladder above their owners.

Scientific research (Bradshaw et al. 2009; Topál et al. 1998; O’Heare, J. 2008) shows:

• Dogs do not form linear dominance hierarchies in the home.
• Dog–human relationships are based on attachment, not rank.
• Dogs rely heavily on cooperation, not competition.
• Problem behaviours are linked to learning history, reinforcement, emotion, stress, pain, or environment — not dominance.

4. Why conflict and dominance are costly for dogs

Even if the dominance theory were true (and it is not), using social dominance or conflict to control dog behaviour would still be problematic. It implies that the dog-owner relationship is a relationship between adversaries, which is both untrue and damaging (O’Heare, J. 2008). And often leads to abuse.

There is no justification for choosing dominance, intimidation and conflict when positive reinforcement is safer, more effective for changing dogs’ unwanted behaviours, and well-supported by decades of research (Beerda et al. 1998; Bradshaw et al. 2009; Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. 2009; Haverbeke et al. 2008; O’Heare, J. 2008). The cost of conflict, both physiological and behavioural, is too high for the dog:

A. Conflict increases stress and reduces learning

When dogs are subjected to intimidation, physical corrections, or any other form of aversive handling, this results in:

• Elevated cortisol
• Increased heart rate
• Reduced ability to process information
• Impaired memory and problem-solving
• Increased reactivity
• Heightened aggression

This pushes the dog into survival mode and they cannot learn effectively.

B. Conflict damages trust and attachment

Dogs rely on humans for safety. Confrontation with the person they depend on can:

• Undermine trust
• Erode safety
• Reduce cooperation
• Create fear around handling

This makes training slower, less reliable, and often less safe.

C. Aversive methods may increase aggression

Force-based methods commonly lead to:

• Suppression of the problem behaviour, not resolution
• Increased avoidance behaviours
• Defensive aggression becomes more likely
• Learned helplessness (the dog may shut down completely and stop offering behaviours altogether to avoid punishment)

D. Aggression is costly in nature

Even in wild species:

• Aggression is a last resort
• Most disputes are resolved through subtle communication or avoidance
• Serious conflict risks injury
• Injury threatens survival

Domestic dogs follow the same principle. They are evolutionarily predisposed to avoid conflict because the costs outweigh the benefits. Which directly contradicts the idea that dogs are constantly attempting to “challenge” humans.

5. Why does the dominance theory persist despite being disproven decades ago

Despite overwhelming evidence, dominance theory remains widespread. Here is why:

1. It’s simple, and simple explanations spread easily

“Your dog is trying to be the boss” is a quick, catchy narrative than:
Your dog is experiencing a complex interaction of reinforcement history, stress, arousal, environmental triggers, etc.

And from there, it’s easy to twist the interpretation of your dog’s natural behaviours to fit that narrative.

2. Misinterpretation of normal dog behaviour

Behaviours such as jumping, lead pulling, guarding, or ignoring cues can look like defiance to the untrained eye, but are actually driven by emotion, motivation, learning.

Dominance becomes a convenient — but incorrect — label.

3. It offers a false sense of control

When behaviours escalate, and owners feel overwhelmed or frustrated, “Be the alpha” appeals and feels like a simple solution, regardless of the cost.

4. Media influence

TV and social media thrive on drama. Confrontational techniques make compelling entertainment — not because they are accurate or ethical, but because they are flashy. In a society where 3 seconds is all you get before the next swipe, an image of an aggressive dog with a message “Your dog is trying to be the boss” stick. A 3-second clip is enough to reinforce outdated ideas, but not to explain the complexity of our dogs’ emotions and behaviour.

5. Outdated information continues to circulate

Some trainers still rely on what they were taught 20-30 years ago, most of them without CPD or engagement with current research. For those unsure how to explain and address behaviour, “Your dog is trying to be the boss” becomes a go-to explanation that masks knowledge and confidence gaps.

And the argument “it works-why change it” is common – but intimidation, chronic stress, fear and often abuse are just not acceptable, and it’s time to move on with the science.

Conclusion

Dominance theory is not supported by modern science. It was based on outdated wolf research, disproven by later wolf studies, and thoroughly rejected by decades of canine behavioural science.

Understanding dogs as emotional, social learners — not status-seeking competitors — allows us to train them more humanely and more effectively, offering lasting results.

And most importantly, it builds the stable, trusting relationships our dogs need in order to thrive.

References:

Beerda, B., Schilder, M.B.H., Van Hooff, J.A.R.A.M., De Vries, H.W., Mol,
J. A. (1998) Behavioural, saliva cortisol and heart rate responses to different types of stimuli in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 58 (3–4), 365-381.

Bradshaw, J. W. S., Blackwell, E., & Casey, R. (2009) Dominance in domestic dogs—Useful construct or bad habit? Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 4(3), 135–144.

Drews, C. (1993) The concept and definition of dominance in animal behaviour. Behaviour, 125(3–4), 283–313.

Haverbeke, A., Laporte, B., Depiereux, E., Giffroy, J.-M., Diederich, C. (2008) Training methods of military dog handlers and their effects on behavioural responses of dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 113 (1–3), 110-122 .

Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009) Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 117 (1–2), 47-54.

Mech, L. D. (1999) Alpha Status, Dominance, and Division of Labor in Wolf Packs. Canadian Journal of Zoology, 77(8), 1196–1203.

O’Heare, J. (2008) Dominance Theory and Dogs. An In-depth Examination of Social Dominance and its Insidious Consequences … and an Alternative. 2nd Edition. DogPsych Publishing, Ottawa, Canada.

Topál, J., Miklósi, Á., Csányi, V., & Dóka, A. (1998) Attachment behaviour in dogs: A new application of Ainsworth’s (1969) Strange Situation Test. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 112(3), 219–229.

For dog owners, this matters more than ever. When you’re dealing with fear, anxiety, reactivity, aggression, resource guarding, the professional you choose to help you can shape the rest of your dog’s life. A well-qualified professional can protect welfare, reduce risk, and build lasting behaviour change. An unqualified one can make things worse.

So what should owners look for?

1. Accreditation, not just confidence
Accredited dog behaviourists and trainers have undergone rigorous assessment — not just an online test or a theory-only course. Reputable accrediting bodies, such as the Institute of Modern Dog Trainers, Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, Association of Pet Dog Trainers, etc., require practical evaluation of real-world skills, welfare-led methodologies, and solid understanding of behaviour science. This means the professional helping you has been independently checked, assessed, and held to high standards.

2. Membership in Professional Organisations and Commitment to ongoing learning (CPD)
Accreditation isn’t a badge you get once and keep forever. Ethical practitioners submit Continuing Professional Development every single year. They stay current with new research, new understanding of evolving best practice. Behaviour science moves quickly — your dog professional should too.

3. Accountability and ethics
Qualified professionals are bound by codes of conduct. That means transparency, humane methods, and putting welfare first.

4. A focus on welfare, not shortcuts
A promise of a “quick fix”, and dramatic online “transformation” might look impressive, but real behaviour change is about welfare, stress reduction, and emotional safety — not dominance narratives or suppression techniques. Accredited professionals work with the dog’s internal state, not just outward obedience.

Why this matters

Your dog’s behaviour is more than just a “content opportunity”, it’s about their wellbeing, their safety, and their emotional health. Choosing the right help has never been more important but also more difficult for dog owners. The dog world is full of noise, but qualified voices are there — trained, assessed, and dedicated to doing right by dogs and owners.

So always do your research and question your chosen trainer or behaviourist’s expertise. Qualified professionals often invest years — and thousands of pounds — in formal study, mentorships, and assessments, and they will be transparent about the courses they have completed, whether those courses involved practical assessment, who assessed them, their supervised experience. Vague statements like “I’ve been around dogs my whole life” are not enough for behaviour cases.

The other end of the spectrum: The “friendly” neighbourhood trainer

At the opposite end, there are the individuals who wake up one morning and decide they are now a dog trainer — no formal education, no assessed competence, and no accountability. We have all started somewhere, right? But are they transparent about their lack of experience and qualifications, their career aspirations, or are they just “winging it” and hoping for the best. They may mean well, and they may be great with their own dogs, but:

• being good with your own dog is not always the same as understanding behaviour
• confidence doesn’t always equal competence
• low-cost advice can become extremely expensive when things go wrong
• outdated or aversive methods can create fear, anxiety, and long-term fallout
• they are not required to stay current or follow ethical guidelines

Unfortunately, owners often come to qualified behaviourists after poor advice has made the problem worse.

Choosing an accredited professional means choosing:
welfare-first methods
evidence-based practice
accountability
depth of knowledge
ongoing learning
long-term results

One of the most common things I see in class is a mismatch between the treats owners bring and what their dogs actually finds motivating.

What does “bring high-value treats” actually mean to an owner—and are we, as trainers, failing to explain this clearly enough?

Well-meaning owners head to the pet shop and arrive with dry, crunchy, mass-produced biscuits. These might technically be labelled “training treats,” but your dog may disagree—and that disagreement matters.

So let’s shed some light on the mystery of the high-value treat.

What Are High-Value Treats, Really?

“High value” isn’t a brand or a marketing term. It’s not about price, fancy packaging, or whether it says “natural” or “premium” on the front. High-value treats are the ones your dog will enthusiastically work to earn, even in a distracting environment.

The best ones tend to be:

• Soft – so they don’t bounce across the floor, take time to chew or crumble into bits (Sorry, previous owner, you tasty treats left crumbs – you might want to rethink your treat choice too!). Your dog can grab and eat them quickly, keeping the training session flowing.
• Smelly – stronger scents mean easier to detect and often more appealing to dogs. Think cheese, fish, or fresh meat.
• Moist – often a sign that the treat contains real meat, cheese, or other rich ingredients, making it more palatable. If unsure, ask yourself: would I feel OK feeding it after reading the ingredients list?
• Human-grade or homemade – things like chopped roast chicken, ham, cheese cubes, or liver cake.

Why This Matters

Training is a learning process. When your dog is surrounded by new smells, sights, and sounds—like in a class or the park—you’re competing with the environment. If the reward you’re offering isn’t worth the effort, your dog will tune out. It’s not that they’re stubborn or untrained—it’s that the payoff doesn’t match the challenge.

A Quick Human Comparison

Imagine I ask you to help me move house on a Saturday. In return, I offer you… a bag of crisps. I know you like crisps, sure – on the sofa, in front of the telly. But are you tempted to give up your weekend and lift heavy furniture for a bag of crisps?

Now imagine I offer you a pub meal, a bottle of wine, or a coffee and cake in your favourite café. Getting warmer?

That’s what I mean as a trainer when I talk about motivation. What your dog finds motivating—in that particular environment—matters.

The Treat Test: Let Your Dog Decide

Still not sure what counts as high value for your dog? Set up a taste test – it’s fun!

Offer small amounts of different options at the same time — kibble, pet shop training treats, raw vegetables, mild cheese, cooked chicken, liver cake or paste, cocktail sausages, tinned fish or dried sprats, ham—and watch what your dog chooses first. Their behaviour will tell you everything you need to know.

Check out the video of me doing this with my own dog:

https://www.facebook.com/reel/1645978946089177

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLU0W2Ot1t4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Still bring some of the lower-value treats too—you can mix them in and use them strategically. But in busy environments, when you’re building new behaviours or working on recall, bring out “the big guns“.

Final Thought – It’s Not Just What You Bring, But How

Your dog isn’t being difficult if they turn their nose up at your treats. They’re just giving you honest feedback. Great training is a conversation, and that starts with listening. The more you pay attention to what truly motivates your dog, the easier training becomes—for both of you.

So let’s talk logistics. Even when owners do bring the right treats, I often see two common problems in class:

1. The treats are in a rustling plastic bag that’s awkward to open, and
2. The treats are too big or sticky and not pre-cut.

Here’s why that matters.

Timing is critical in dog training. When your dog does something you like— a sit, eye contact, or recall— you’ve got about 1–2 seconds to deliver the reward for them to associate the treat with their action. If you’re fumbling with a bag or trying to tear a sausage into chunks, you’ve missed the moment. The learning weakens, and frustration builds for both of you.

I always recommend using a treat pouch worn on your belt or clipped to your waistband. You can also put the loose treats straight in your pocket. It keeps your hands free, allows for quick access, and is silent. You can deliver a treat within a second, mark with a clicker or a “yes,” and move on smoothly.

And make sure treats are cut to pea-sized pieces—yes, even the good stuff! You’ll need dozens of repetitions in a single session, and your dog won’t work well with a full sausage in their mouth every time. And how many sausages later would your tiny dog be full and lose interest in training?

In class, I often demonstrate how much faster training progresses when I can reinforce behaviour immediately—and with something the dog really wants.

So if you’ve ever felt like your dog “won’t listen” in training, it might not be about the behaviour at all—it might be the timing, delivery, and quality of the reinforcement.

Why Choose Positive Reinforcement?

Unlocking Your Dog’s Potential: The Positive Way

At MYDOGISNUTS, we champion positive reinforcement because we know it works – and it works wonders. Unlike aversive techniques that rely on fear and punishment, positive reinforcement uses kindness, rewards, and encouragement to bring out the best in your dog. Keep reading to find out why it’s the ultimate choice for building a harmonious companionship.

Builds Trust: Positive reinforcement builds trust between you and your dog. By focusing on rewards and encouragement, your furry friend learns to associate good behaviour with positive outcomes. This not only makes training enjoyable but also deepens the bond between you.

Joyful Learning: Imagine training sessions filled with tail wags and eager eyes. Positive reinforcement transforms learning into an exciting game where treats, praises, and play are the rewards. Your dog’s enthusiasm to learn becomes contagious, making every step of the journey a delightful adventure.

Confidence Boost: With positive reinforcement, your dog gains confidence. They thrive on your praise and feel empowered when they master new skills. As they realise their potential, watch them flourish both in training and in life.

Empowerment, Not Fear: Aversive techniques might lead to short-term compliance, but they come at a cost – your dog’s happiness. Positive reinforcement empowers your dog to choose the right behaviours willingly, not out of fear, ensuring a well-adjusted and content furry family member.

Discover the Difference

Positive Reinforcement vs. Aversive Techniques: A Clear Choice

Achieve Real Results: 

At MYDOGISNUTS, we’ve witnessed remarkable transformations. Dogs once branded stubborn connecting with their owners and performing tricks with glee. Owners once frustrated sharing unbreakable bonds with their four-legged companions. Their stories inspire us, and they can inspire you too.

Choose Positive Dog Training. Embrace the magic of positive reinforcement. Unlock your dog’s true potential and create a relationship built on love, trust, and respect. Get in touch with us and embark on a journey that celebrates the remarkable connection between you and your dog.

Your dog deserves a life of wagging tails, and we’re here to make it happen!